Belleville

I've been scoping out new neighborhoods in Paris - new for me, at least - beyond the well-trod historic and museum-filled center - where I'm told the "vrai parisien" lives.  Because a novel I'm currently reading is set in Belleville (a neighborhood in the northeastern part of Paris) in the post-World War II years, I decided it was time to check out the Parc de Belleville, which is situated on one side of a hill, facing towards Paris' center and, as could be expected, has wonderful views of the city.  

It's not a very big park and not much of place for a run (unless you're into hill work, which I'm definitely not); it's rather more for a slow stroll, and preferably downhill rather than up.  It's also lovely, of course, for a picnic or reading a book or taking in the rare Paris sun.

The best way to start, then, is to take the métro to the Pyrénées station.  Coming out of the métro, head in the downhill direction and turn left on rue Piat.  It's just a bit further down that street, also downhill.  

The walk itself through the park is lovely and leisurely because the path winds and turns down the hill with views so spectacular that you can't help stopping to gaze into the distance to try to pinpoint landmarks.

As for the neighborhood itself, it is much like it was in those post-war years - a melting pot of newcomers to France.  At the same time, though, it has become very popular with younger Parisians who are seeking affordable apartments and so are turning it into one of the more trendy parts of town, as has been occurring through much of the northeastern quadrant of Paris in recent years.

Winter Tennis

Lucky kids who get to take off Wednesday from school every week!  Those are the young Parisian schoolchildren.  And, not just lucky, they get to play tennis, even in winter, under the rare Parisian sun, in front of the Palais (now the Senat) in the Jardin du Luxembourg.  

And when the students are not using the courts (which are reserved for them on Wednesdays), the adults come out to swing their racquets on the cold days, too, wearing scarves wrapped securely and fashionably around their necks, bien sûr, and even gloves (I cannot be sure what that does to their quality of play, but at least they get out there, year-round, it seems.)

Windy City

"Risk of violent winds, falling branches"

Not usually the scene I'm used to here, but the wind has picked up and has been banging the French door windows in the apartment since last night.  Strong rain, too.  No, I'm not in Chicago.  There's a storm blowing through France from the ocean (Atlantic, for those of you not into geography), named Tempête Joachim that's apparently doing some real damage closer to the sea.  

Here a bit of local scenery to provide a better idea - 

These chairs are not lying down on purpose.

In fact, on my walk today, I got stuck in the Luxembourg Garden and realized there were no other people around me.  There seemed to be just one entrance open on each side of the park, and no others.  I'm not quite sure how that helps prevent anyone being hit by a flying branch, but I suppose it's Paris's way of saying, "We'll let you in the Jardin, but only if you really make an effort to find an open gate, and then it's your problem if after you've given it that much thought, you have decided to take the risk."  Kind of passive/aggressive, if you ask me.

And then there's that sign at the top, which is located at the open entrances, to make the point extra clear.  I can just see a lawyer (working with an Impressionist artist) having thought that one up.

Vaux-le-Vicomte

So many options abound for a day out of the center of Paris that it's almost numbing to decide what to choose.  It just about paralyzed me, so much so that, other than my "randonnée" in a nearby pastoral suburb a while back, I just couldn't pry myself out of Paris for even a moment.  Of course, being tempted by all that Paris itself has to offer makes it just that much harder to leave.

However, finally prodded by friends to move out of my comfy surroundings, Vaux-le-Vicomte was the choice for a Saturday in the country.  Vaux-le-Vicomte is a chateau (one of many) that exists within a short train ride from Paris.  It was a perfect day trip on a perfect late-fall day. 

 

There is great history to this chateau (isn't there always?), and inside the chateau itself, they do a good job (kid-friendly, too, with some animated life-size figures in the decorated rooms) of presenting it.  In fact, the chateau and the gardens were designed by the architect and garden designer who later designed Versailles, and it is referred to as the "inspiration" for Versailles.  The good news is that it's not only much more manageable than Versailles to take in as a visitor, but the whole world isn't there with you on the day you're visiting!

For me, the real treat was the garden that seemed to go on and on, which in its time was so sophisticated in its design that the view changes throughout one's stroll through it, providing optical illusions and points of interest that are unseen until reaching various points along the way.

We brought sandwiches with us that we'd purchased at the train station, and so one goal was to locate just the right spot for our picnic.  That worked out well because, even though there was food for sale on premises, we didn't have to succumb to tourist site prices and quality.

Practical tip: the chateau runs a shuttle service to and from the train station closest to the chateau (Melun), but only in season.  My visit was OFF-season (check the website) and the shuttle was no longer running.  Getting to the chateau from the Melun train station after the 25-minute train ride from Gare de Lyon in Paris was no problem, but the return was an issue.  We waited almost an hour by the side of the road, along with others who'd called the same lone taxi service for the town, which appeared to have a total of two drivers and two taxis on staff.

That bit of inconvenience was quickly forgotten when we decided to check out the spectacular (and also historic) Le Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon upon return and sit for a while in the cushy leather chairs of its "Big Ben Bar" contemplating our out-of-Paris day.

Fall Foliage

"Fall Foliage" doesn't just happen in New England.  Good to know, and even nicer to be able to see up close, even on another continent.  And, as the East Coast of the US braces for SNOW in October, I'm quite content with a bit of rain, 60 degrees, and these fabulous trees.

Sometimes It's Allowed

But mostly, it's not.  Sitting on the grass, that is.  And sometimes it's both at once, alternating sections of the lawn, so you must read first!

And when it is, there are charming little places like this one below from which you can purchase a bite to eat and drink.  It's not a New York lunch truck, but maybe a just-made crèpe with Nutella will help to make up for that loss, because you've got to take advantage of those opportunities to sit on the grass  (or one of the quite comfortable green metal chairs scattered all over) when you are permitted to do so, especially on a 64-degree Sunday in late October.

Never have I seen so many people here; I thought they must have been giving something away!

Such Heat!

Global warming it is then!  Or perhaps not.  One could argue the point, but who has the energy?  It's just too darn hot.  So, I went out on a hunt for just what one can do in such heat, if one strangely chooses to leave the confines of an air-conditioned space and spend time outdoors, as I attempted yesterday (all in the name of research, as I often say, but this research, alas, didn't involve any calories).

I think this little girl running through the sprinkler in the Union Square playground fountain has the best idea, and certainly won the prize for Appearing to Most Enjoy the Heat (she's not crying, believe me, and watching her dash around in and through that sprinkler with abandon was a riot):

Most everyone else just seemed to slow down, find some shade and do what they would ordinarily do, but with as little movement as possible:

playing chess

playing with toys

wearing costumes and performing childrens' theater, really

finding the shade and grass and just lying there

eating lunch

reading under umbrella

Kindle and iced coffee

And then there were those in great numbers who just didn't seem to understand that it was 95 degrees.  But when you're a tourist, you have to play with the cards you're dealt, and if you really want to see a Broadway show, then you really want to see a Broadway show (and I don't blame them).  I would have been happy to explain the online option for discount tickets if anyone had wanted to listen:

crowd and hours long line at the TKTS booth in Times Square - no shade at all

In the end, who did I most wish to emulate yesterday?  This mom:

back to the water...

Why should only the kids get to have fun while staying cool?

Looking Up

I can look up from a New York street and, if I squint just enough to close out the skyscrapers (and put my fingers in my ears to muffle the loud American voices and honking taxis), I can see Paris (or some other American vision of European architecture of some past era).  Well, just a little bit, and enough to make me realize that I need a trip to Europe, pronto!  

A July spent in New York (after a June spent in New York) filled with European tourists is just digging it in unfairly.  Ha ha, though, the last laugh might be ours - it's going to be 100 degrees today and tomorrow here, and it's barely into the 60s in Paris.  Come to think of it, I'll take that trade!

It's the Plaza Hotel, but the combo rooftop is definitely some kind of Euro.

I have no idea.  Any guesses? 

Paris, bien sûr!

Paris aussi.

A bit of Renaissance Italy?

A Bavarian Castle?  Or Hogwarts?

Lincoln Center Anew

With the last of my ABT series completed last night (a wonderful farewell performance by Jose Manuel Carreno in "Swan Lake," with Julie Kent and Gillian Murphy dancing Odette and Odile), and my visit to this season's start of Midsummer Night Swing, it got me thinking about Lincoln Center and its rejuvenated appearance and changes, major and minor, that have rolled out over recent years.  Enough time has passed, and the changes substantial enough, to consider them with a close look.

One of the stated goals for the recent renovations in Lincoln Center was to create a more lively public space, for even those not attending performances.  From what I have seen, I believe that goal is being met.  There is now outdoor seating (yeah chairs!) in various areas of the complex, trees for shade, free wifi, a grassy area for sunning that also serves as the roof over a new high-end Italian restaurant, Lincoln, the fountain at which people seem to be meeting at all hours and other gathering spots.

The Lincoln Center Plaza and Fountain, café seating in foreground

People always sitting on that new sleek fountain rim

Pianos sprinkled throughout the plaza (this kid was incredible!)

New spots and chairs for shade and relaxing

Grassy roof atop the new Lincoln restaurant

Outside Alice Tully Hall

Another piano, with pink gelato cart in the background

Another view of Lincoln and its grass roof